I have found locals fluent in my native tongue in various world capitals, from obvious ones like Paris and Madrid to perhaps the not-so-obvious, like Prague and Moscow. Of course in Portugal, if you plan to live in the capital, the country’s “second city” of Porto, or in the southern region of the Algarve, you can count on ease of communication.
But it’s always smart to have basic words and phrases under your belt when traveling about in, or relocating to, a foreign country. It’s both helpful for you and a sign of respect toward the natives. And, if you want to explore Portugal in depth, it is a good idea to develop at least a rudimentary knowledge of the language spoken by approximately 250 million people around the world, and which is the second-most spoken Romance language after Spanish. Because in the heart of the Alentejo, or in outlying aldeias anywhere in the country, you may find you cannot converse in English. Charades, maybe, but not English.
Language course
To this end, early in our Portuguese life my husband and I enrolled in an intensive language course at the University of Coimbra, one of the oldest continually operating universities in Europe. It was thrilling to attend classes in a building that housed Portuguese monarchs from the 12th to the 15th centuries. By the way, without a doubt, Coimbra, the former capital of Portugal, is a city in which you can get by in English only, due to the student population, tourism, and the expat community.
When not attending classes, we played tourists, exploring many of the town’s special sites. Opportunities were endless. At the university alone there was the Joanine Library, with its polished woods and leather-bound volumes dating back centuries, St. Michael’s Chapel, home to a 3,000-pipe organ, and much more.
One block away, on Largo Doutor José Rodrigues, we visited the Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro, named for one of Portugal’s most famous sculptors. In the Middle Ages, the structure was the bishop’s palace, built over the Roman forum of Aeminium (the Roman name of Coimbra). On the lower floors of the museum, in the Cryptoporticus, we were instantly transported back to ancient times.
Venturing down serpentine alleys to the Rua Ferreira Borges and Rua Visconde da Luz, past boutiques, pastelarias, and cafés, we toured the Igreja de Santa Cruz, a former monastery dating from 1131, notable for its magnificent blue and white azulejo-tiled walls and Manueline architecture, the late gothic style that flourished during the reign of King Dom Manuel I. It is also a National Pantheon, as it is the final resting place of the first two kings of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques and his successor, Dom Sancho I.
Highlights
One of the great highlights for us was diving into Portugal’s soulful art form, fado. Inextricably bound to students and the University, the fado of Coimbra is unique in that it is sung only by men, and appreciation for the “serenade” songs is shown not with applause, but with a discreet clearing of the throat. Whenever family or friends visited from the States we brought them to Fado ao Centro, located on Rua do Quebra-Costas (loosely translated as “Street of Breaking Back,” a well-earned name). We never tired of the performances, which were followed by a complimentary glass of Port and a chance to chat with the artists.
We strolled through the Parque Verde and dined at restaurants on the banks of the River Mondego, which wends its way through the city. I came to enjoy Coimbra so much that I created a walking tour game called Coimbra: Cathedrals, Kings, and Calla Lilies. It was a way of paying homage to a town that offers so much to so many.
Our “college days” over, we moved on to other venues over the years, but have now returned to Coimbra. These days our time spent there is more utilitarian. Once a week or so we head into town for necessities. In fifteen minutes we can arrive at Leroy Merlin, Coimbrashopping, The Forum Coimbra, or Alma Shopping. In addition to the usual supermarkets like Continente and InterMarché, there’s a small but nicely stocked SuperCor, as well. Sadly there is no Apolónia. It’s probably just as well. The last time we were in Lagos, as I waited in the café for my husband to fill his shopping cart, I thought I would be asked to pay rent.
Another expat haven, Figueira da Foz, is just 45 minutes to the west of us. I prefer mountains to the beach, but sometimes you just want to be close to the water. If you have chosen the Algarve as your home, you know exactly what I’m talking about.
So we have now returned to a favorite city because of a bond developed long ago when we studied at its legendary university. But was the certificate I earned there enough to demonstrate language proficiency when, years later, I applied for Portuguese citizenship? Stay tuned….
Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.
Yes you are becoming very Portugues, in-so-much-as your article poses a question - which your ramblings then fail to answer.......
By David from Beiras on 04 Mar 2024, 00:15
Excellent article. Very much looking forward to the next one so I 'stay tuned'!
By Vidar Kjelsberg from Algarve on 04 Mar 2024, 09:38
Great article, we love it here in Arganil also. Landed in Portugal 18 months ago from Denver. Portuguese is little challenging but we will get there. Best regards.
By ARBEN DANAJ from Açores on 04 Mar 2024, 12:08
I love reading these experiences from people who have chosen to make Portugal their new home. They are very insightful too and l learn alot.
By Lisa from Other on 04 Mar 2024, 12:15
This article is interesting. Immigrants from US and other place can contribute to cultural prosperity in Portugal. Prosperidade cultural enriquece Portugal. Naus portuguesas discovering pelo mundo. Now the world is discovering Portugal, a really good place to start a new fresh. Porto, Coimbra and Algarve... Stunning places to settledown. Tricia made an excellent job in this article.
By Renato Bray from Other on 04 Mar 2024, 12:16
Do you need to learn the language to live in Portugal?
That is a big yes! I don´t care where you are you will need to have some command of Portuguese to get by. I had rudimentary knowledge when we arrived five years ago and still had to use The Force to sign up at Águas de Gaia to get water hooked up in our first apartment!
Very few employees at government institutions will speak English, even in the cities.
And if you are language challenged (like my husband) it will be a rough road.
I spoke French, Italian, and some German and Russian before taking on Portuguese and it has been a challenge for me as well.
If you want to live here learning Portuguese is obrigatorio. Fluency in Spanish helps.
Boa sorte amigos!
By Lisa Graziano from Other on 04 Mar 2024, 16:14
My experience of admitting I was American while visiting Portugal. (Actually, I didn't admit it, but my Portuguese wife's family must have told their friends when we visited their rural home. After all, why would I have made a big deal about being American?....I'm visiting Portugal; I'm in someone else's country. ) Anyways, they had horses, and after I mounted the horse, I heard someone say very slowly, "A-m-e-r-i-c-a-n-o...", and they yelled and slapped as hard as they could the horse's ass! The horse took off in a gallop and I went for a ride, but fortunately I trusted the horse, that it knew where it was going and where it would return. Was I surprised? Nope. Did I hold any grudges? Nope.
By William from Other on 04 Mar 2024, 17:33
Thank you all for reading and for your comments. Yes, next time when I write about my citizenship journey, there will be more on the Portuguese language. (And many, like Lisa, already know the importance of acquiring facility with it.) In the meantime, I was happy to shed light on Coimbra, which, as Renato agrees, is a wonderful place to settle. Best to you all!
By Tricia Pimental from Other on 05 Mar 2024, 08:17
Hardly surprising! America is unbearable as a country. Stupidly expensive, health care sucks and the tribal divisions are now rife. Let's keep Portugal portuguese for the sake of all natives and immigrants a like...
By David from Lisbon on 05 Mar 2024, 11:40
Great article. I am taking the same course this summer at the university with a friend who is moving to Coimbra in May. My grandfather got his medical degree at the university in 1918. I also plan to apply for Portuguese citizenship later.
By Steve d'Oliveira from USA on 05 Mar 2024, 11:40
Ms. Pimental - Great article. My father was born just 30km from Coimbra. I love the city, especially Fado ao Centro.
I have Portuguese citizenship and we are waiting for my wife’s to be approved.
I have been trying to learn Portuguese and it’s a struggle at times.
I’ll keep trying.
Can’t wait for your next article.
By Joe from USA on 05 Mar 2024, 12:38
English is the most spoken language in the world. Portuguese is the 5th most spoken language in the world. But since the official language in Portugal is Portuguese, it would be wise to learn Portuguese and be fluent in the Portuguese language, specially if you're living in Portugal. If you live in a English speaking country then you speak English. But in Portugal we speak Portuguese. It's wise to speak the official language of the country you live in. COMPREHEND
By Tony from Other on 05 Mar 2024, 13:19
Whatever the title and sub-title, I enjoyed the content and the whimsical style of this article. More, please?
By Guenady from Other on 05 Mar 2024, 18:54
We have just read your article with interest and would like to know how to get information about the course you followed in Coimbra ?
By Laurence from Lisbon on 10 Mar 2024, 07:28
I find it a bit of a confusing article...
By Sylvia from Lisbon on 10 Mar 2024, 17:46
If you think it’s difficult, not being able to talk to Portuguese who don’t speak English, go to Spain. In Spain, they don’t think they have to learn any other languages just like Americans. Don’t think they have to learn any other language. They fully expect that you talk with them in Spanish. Even when a friend of mine from, Spain came to visit me in Lisbon to me and my Brazilian friend in Spanish and expected us to talk to him in Spanish. It was hilarious.
By Patrick Oh! from Lisbon on 02 May 2024, 12:26
Oh, PatricK Oh! How I agree with you about Spain. Insane, Spain is.
By Tricia Pimental from Other on 30 May 2024, 07:34
Very nice article.
My wife and I moved here almost 2 years ago.
We live in the Algarve.
We have completed A1 and A2 and are studying for the Ciple exams.
I am 70 and if I had to do something over in my education it would have been the study of a foreign language.
55 years ago I looked at it as waisting my time on something I would never use.
How wrong I was.
Last year we were in a restaurant in Madrid, and I had to send my food back.
It was no big deal and the waiter was very nice.
The manager came over and scolded me for sending it back.
Excuse me but I am not eating raw chicken.
He then decided he was taking care of us personally.
He rudely dismissed the waiter.
He asked us if we wanted desert and we ordered two espressos.
He came back and threw the bill on the table.
I asked about the espressos and said we did not order in Spanish.
Needless to say the review of the restaurant was not very good.
By jeffrey Kugler from Algarve on 18 Jun 2024, 10:57