An American in Portugal - Stretching your summer

I can’t take credit for that unattributed comment I found online, but I can certainly relate to it. Having said that, it seems that plenty of people were—and are even now—away on férias. It’s been a challenge these past weeks to have our car repaired, get a doctor's appointment, or arrange to see an advertised rental property.

If you haven’t yet indulged in your own getaway, or if you have and would like another shot at the season, you might like this article, “Beach Accommodation for the Last Summer Dip” that I came across, recommending places in Spain. If you prefer to remain in Portugal, naturally there are endless options right here at home. Here are some suggestions.

North

There are no bars or restaurants (although there’s a kiosk selling cold beer), but a visit to Praia de Paço is well worth your time. Located an hour north of Porto, this intimate beach is a half-mile stretch of sandy coves with shallow inlets that are perfect for children. Free parking and restrooms are available. Explore the nearby 18th-century fort when you tire of sand and sea, and when you’ve worked up an appetite, head 15 minutes south to the city of Viana do Castelo.

Central Region

There’s an extensive network of praias fluviais, river beaches, in the center of Portugal. There you’ll find calmer, cleaner, warmer waters, on grassy and sandy banks, often with outdoor cafés shaded by brightly colored umbrellas. One excellent choice is Praia de Palheiros do Zorro, which translates to Beach of the Fox’s Haystacks. It also translates to a welcoming river beach near the bustling university town of Coimbra. Leave your car in the parking lot and head to the bar for a drink and snack and then take a dip in water so shallow it gives the impression of a large pool. Stretch out on the ample sandy expanse or under a shade tree. The recreation area also offers a volleyball court on site.

My favorite (so far) is the zona balnear or “bathing zone” of Meimão, not to be confused with Meimoa, although that river beach is lovely, and ranked number 1 of 11 things to do in Penamacor.

Sertã is an interesting river beach in the Castelo Branco district in that it runs through town, so when you’re done with swimming, there are shops and restaurants right nearby.

Lisbon Coast

Near the city of Setúbal, Serra de Arrábida Natural Park is considered a Portuguese paradise. It’s home to rare animal species, fascinating caves and a 16th century abbey. But the sparkling jewel is the stretch of the area’s magnificent beaches, Portinho de Arrábida. There are actually four principal beaches here, with crystal clear, turquoise waters: Praia da Figuerinha, Praia do Creiro, Praia da Galápos, and Praia de Galapinhos.

The first two are the most easily accessible, with several parking lots available to visitors. Or you can take a bus from the Alegro Shopping Center in Setúbal directly to the beaches. If you don’t want to go all the way back to Setúbal to dine, grab a burger, fries, and cold drink at O Zeca beach bar and restaurant on Estrada do Portinho do Arrábida.

Alentejo

Vicentine Coast Natural Park termed the last wild coast in Europe, has a hidden gem in Praia da Amália, near the village of Azenho do Mar in Odemira. This small beach—it virtually disappears at high tide—was named for the legendary fadista Amália Rodrigues, who both learned to swim and kept a vacation home here. Access requires a fair hike down to the water, so it’s really not for children. But if you are looking for unspoiled and private, this is it.

Algarve

Meia Praia is the largest beach in Lagos, and many say it’s the best in the Western Algarve, where sandstone cliffs give way to grassy banks bordering languorous stretches of golden sand. There’s a lot to support that designation, because of the beach’s bars, restaurants, and marina.

But if you’re looking for stunning scenery, my suggestion is Praia de Benagil in Lagoa. Carved over millennia by rainwater and the crashing Atlantic surf, the coastal area near Benagil features a string of labyrinthine caves. Some are minuscule, some underwater, some darkened for lack of sun. But the most well-known, Benagil Sea Cave, is large and airy, with ethereal sunlight streaming through a photogenic circular skylight, eroded by the elements over time.

The official end of summer is September 22. What are you waiting for?

Native New Yorker Tricia Pimental left the US in 2012, later becoming International Living’s first Portugal Correspondent. The award-winning author and her husband, now Portuguese citizens, currently live in Coimbra.

Tricia Pimental